The Coyote

I am overjoyed to finally formally introduce the Coyote! I wanted the first Yanasi YoYo prototype to be a study of extremes, and the Coyote definitely succeeds in that regard. But before we get down and dirty with the technical details, I want to dig into the goals of the design.


Design goals

My first goal was to design something unique, and something I'd love to play. Deciding to do an H-Shape narrowed down the overall profile, and from there I started to think about trick elements that I enjoy doing. I find myself doing a lot of grinds of both the finger and thumb variety, so I set out to work on design features that would facilitate those elements. After deciding to incorporate grinding features I got to working on putting everything together in the most comfortable and responsive shape I could.

Elements

In order to facilitate finger grinds, I wanted to create a point to minimize the amount of friction while still keeping it stable. I decided to move the steep curve of the H-Shape inward, and use that as a grinding surface. The average ring size of an adult man falls between 8 and 12 which corresponds to 18.1mm to 21.4mm in diameter. From there, I reduced the wall gap to account for grinding a little lower on your finger, and settled on a width of about 15mm. I rounded the edge enough to keep it from hitting too sharp, and moved on to the rest of the design.

With the walls being so inset I decided to compensate pretty heavily; I made the remaining catch area very steep and the rim very heavy. I then reduced the wall thickness in the cup as much as I safely could, and pushed the center out to keep the axle length at 8mm. Personally, I think the cup is the most visually pleasing part of most YoYos because you can really make small design elements pop. I created two flat surfaces in the cup on which I plan to have some designs laser etched in some of the production colorways. Then I rounded between those flat surfaces at an angle steep enough to keep your finger locked in for finger spins. It's not an iCEBERG, but I have manged to get some decently long finger spins and grinds on raw aluminum. I feel like that's a big success.

With the cup and general profile done, I moved on to the weight ring. I think if you're making a bi-metal you should try to take advantage of the second material for more than just weight. I decided to add a deeper curve near the rim, and to extend the rim in a taper towards the center of the YoYo. These angles would be difficult to machine in a single piece of metal, but doing it in two separate pieces allows for a deeper groove to be made. The taper also keeps the rim from scratching your thumbnail, and keeps the vast majority of the ring weight towards the outside of the body. Once the ring was nailed down, I put a comfort curve on the rim to soften how the YoYo feels in hand, then continued the facing curve into the rim as a nice little design feature.

The ring is thick, and the rim adds even more outside weight. I didn't want all of that weight to give it a sluggish bind, so I kept the response gap on the narrow side. With the response being narrow, I also made the wall a little taller than necessary to keep the string from catching on the silicone unless it is bound.


Technical Specs

American Made
Weight - 71.9g
Diameter - 53.5mm
Width - 43.3mm
Gap - 3.9mm

I've mentioned the Coyoteis heavy a few times, and that wasn't by accident. The Coyote weighs in at just shy of 72 grams. The body itself is about 20.4 grams of 7075 Aluminum, and the rings are about 14.4 grams of Brass. This weight comes in a small frame, at only 53.5 millimeters in diameter and 43.3 millimeters wide. The gap is just shy of 3.9 millimeters. The weight translates into a lot of stable power on the throw, but a truly surprising amount of nimbleness when it gets moving.

My current plan for hardware is to go with what I think are the best; the Buddha Ripple and Buddha White response pads. I've used Buddha bearings almost exclusively for the past year and a half and I'm always more happy with them than any "stock" bearing I've used. To top it off, JD is an awesome guy and I'm happy as hell to give him a little more business any chance I get.


What's Next

This is a prototype, so I went in asking "What can be made better?" The next step is to get my remaining unpressed halves anodized, and try out a couple different methods of fitting the rings. My unpressed halves are almost glass smooth, but the pressed halves have a little more vibe than I'd like. If the second batch has as much vibe when pressed then I'll be revisiting the rim design to see if there is anything minute to be done to reduce the likelihood of vibe.

The bearing posts are a little more loose than I normally like, but since the unpressed halves are almost vibe free I may keep them loose. Life is so much better when you don't have to rip a bearing out with pliers or a removal tool, and a looser bearing post should reduce the likelihood of galling. If the second batch comes back with the same vibe, then adjusting the bearing post is something I'll consider as well.

I need a week or two to evaluate the grinding wall, and I'll be looking for some feedback from some people in the community about the width of that gap. It fits my fingers, but I want to make sure it'll fit a range of other people as well, especially anyone with smaller fingers. One element of it that I like is the shape of the catch is amazing for doing fingertip grinds and maintaining some stability.

I've tried a couple pieces of Kitty String, Zipline, and Spoolthread so far, but I want to test out as many strings as I can get my hands on. The gap is more narrow than the average throw, and I don't want to lock people into one type of string for the best response. Following the same logic, I'm planning on testing out Buddha Black and R pads as well as flowable silicone.